Sunday 18 January 2015

Auschwitz-Birkenau: To go or not to go?

2014 and 2015 mark the anniversaries of some of the ‘big’ events in history and acts of commemoration and memorialisation seem to be dominating the news. Last year the centenary commemorations of the First World War began with stupendous force – world gatherings attended by thousands of people, local memorial services and of course the hugely talked about art installation at the Tower of London, being just a few. There was also the 25th anniversary of the falling of the Berlin Wall and this year we have the 800th anniversary of Magna Carta and the 70th anniversary of the end of the Second World War. It also means that it marks the anniversary of the liberation of the notorious concentration camps and January 27th, the anniversary of the liberation of Auschwitz, is of course Holocaust Memorial Day; a day for remembrance and education and one I expect will be even more poignant on what is the 70th anniversary.

As such there have been a number of articles appear on twitter in recent weeks; some reflective, some thought provoking, but all inspiring discussion. This week however, two have particularly caught my eye for the questions they raise and the differing attitudes of their authors.

The first was titled ‘70th anniversary of Auschwitz liberation: 'Why I had to visit this monstrous memorial' and was written by Simmy Richman who had long been critical of what the article describes as the ‘macabre tourism’  that now surrounds the sites that were once the locations of such horrific acts (1).
He writes:
‘…. the idea of ever returning to any of the scenes of the Nazis' crimes never particularly appealed. The very thought of visiting the concentration camps themselves felt positively macabre. I have known many Jewish people who have done this as a rite of passage. But, I reasoned, there are also those who jump at the chance to visit any site of historic evil – Ground Zero, the killing fields of war, the trails of serial killers and so on. Why didn't they just tear Auschwitz down after the war, I would ask whenever the subject came up. Who needs to see such monstrousness in person, and why?’


'Arbeit Macht Frei'
Authors own Photo
These are all perfectly reasoned and justified views which I am sure are held by many and not just Richman, himself of Jewish ancestry. But what I found interesting was that following a discussion with a relative who is a “survivor”, actively involved with the Holocaust Education Trust and believes that “everybody should” visit; Richman made the journey to Auschwitz-Birkenau . His article is therefore very much a reflection of the personal journey he went on and of his responses throughout that experience. His expectation’s that there would be things you’d instinctively detest were met and there were clear political undercurrents at play, but Richman concludes, somewhat surprisingly,  by saying that his ‘eyes have been opened and that ‘[he], too… now believe[s] that everybody should visit these miserable memorials…’.

I then came across a second article that’s title drew me in immediately- ‘Why every child must visit Auschwitz’, which was published on Holocaust Memorial Day 2014 (2). Having just read an article where an adult had struggled to reconcile with whether visiting a concentration camp was the right and appropriate thing to do, with some very convincing and poignant remarks, I was somewhat conflicted by the ideas this second author was putting across. Yet, incidentally they are views I happen to share.
Writer of the second article, Tom Walters, made the visit to Auschwitz and offers a personal yet insightful reflection on his trip, putting forward the opinion that schools and colleges should run trips to Auschwitz-Birkenau and that ‘with history’s lesson firmly in mind, it should be a compulsory trip. Young people need these lessons from history to help shape perspective [and] to learn lessons that cannot be taught in the classroom’.  And, I agree strongly with what Walters writes here, having myself been one of a group of students to go on such a trip organised by my school. Having opted to take GCSE history, we were offered the chance to visit Krakow and to go to Auschwitz-Birkenau back in 2007, and it was a hugely eye-opening trip for me and an experience I still remember vividly to this day.

At the time we were asked to write a short piece about why it was we’d like to be considered to go as there were a limited number of places, and looking back at what I wrote, it’s very much in keeping with the ideas Walters encourages, if perhaps a little naïve and idealistic.
‘…by going I hope that I will not only learn, but to be able to come back and tells others about the experience and do everything in my power to ensure that it never happens again. I think the way of being able to do this, is to witness and visit the place where it happened.’
I certainly learnt a lot on that trip and at the time, I did come back and speak about my experiences, something that I still do today. It made what is written in books and spoken about become real - it seems so intangible that the crimes committed actually happened, that I think to see the place where it happened, is oddly, the only way to believe it. And so if those sites had been torn down as Richman once believed they should have been, you lose part of what makes it a reality for those who did not experience those events at the time. Being told about it is one thing, but to see it is another.

It is Walters’ second paragraph that really captured exactly how I remember the experience, he writes:
‘Predictably, a visit to Auschwitz was harder than you could have ever imagined, something which just cannot be forgotten. The experience wraps itself around you, changing forever your perspective of the world and the people that reside in it. Emotions are robbed from you leaving you numb, unable to comprehend the magnitude of the systematic terror brought upon so many people. Ten minutes, fifteen minutes, an hour passes but still nothing. You're almost thankful for the numbness it brings for if emotion was to get the better of you, the suffocating pressure of history would leave you unable to breath’.

I’ve never felt as cold or as numb as when we stood as a group, lit candles of remembrance and said a prayer on the site. Even now thinking about it I get shivers down my spine and can still see the exact scene before my eyes. It’s a memory I will never forget and an experience that has changed my perspective of the world.

"I still live and will live on/ and will never more keep silent about/ I have seen Auschwitz."
I Have Seen Auschwitz by Fritz Deppert

I was 15 at the time and perhaps not what you’d strictly call a child, but I do think it’s an appropriate age to make such a trip and to have that experience. By the time you’re an adult, as Richman discovered, you’ve had chance to really formulate opinions and almost become cynical about it – I don’t mean that disrespectfully, but you do get stuck on the fact that a tourism has formed around these sites, gift shops and cafes can be found there and visitor experience is taken into consideration. While political motives are also strongly at play, each invested party trying to impart  its own historical narrative. In many ways you have to try and detach all that from the history and from peoples experiences; I suppose treat it like any other historical source. You have to analyse and critique what you see – but there is something about the sense of place that is evoked by standing there that pushes that all to be a latter consideration. It’s so inconsequential in that moment.

Authors own Photo
Just to stand there and to experience it is something else. It’s not enjoyable by any stretch of the imagination. It’s tough, it’s emotional, it’s infuriating, it’s overwhelming but I am so glad I was given the opportunity to go as young person. Both articles conclude the same way by saying that “everybody should go” and I agree. Furthermore, with a more mature head on my shoulders now, it is something that sometime in the future I’d hope to do again, for there is more to learn than any 15 year old can comprehend, but it is a very good place to start.



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